What to Eat in Accra

Accra sits on the Gulf of Guinea, where a humid tropical climate and two rainy seasons shape what grows and lands on the table. Cassava, plantain, maize, and seafood anchor everyday meals, while preserved fish and chilies add depth and heat. Street vendors start early, and home cooking keeps steady rhythms.

Meals balance starches with pepper sauces, stews, and grilled fish, eaten with the right hand when appropriate. Fermentation and smoking techniques suit the heat, extending shelf life and concentrating flavor. Migration within Ghana has brought northern staples south, making the capital a concise map of national tastes.

Ga kenkey reflects Accra’s coastal Ga heritage: corn dough is fermented for a few days, a portion is cooked into a paste and remixed, then the dough is wrapped in dried corn husks and boiled until firm. It is served with fried or grilled fish, sliced onions and tomatoes, and a spoon of shito, the deeply savory chili condiment simmered with dried fish and shrimp powders, ginger, and oil until nearly black. The result is a tangy, slightly sour mound with a tight crumb that pairs with the crisp fish skin and the umami heat of shito; eaten at lunch or dinner in homes and at roadside stands, it embodies how fermentation and marine bounty define Accra’s plate.

Waakye is a beloved breakfast and early lunch, made by simmering rice and cowpeas with the sheath of sorghum leaves, which tint the grains a reddish-brown and add a subtle herbal note. Vendors portion it with a constellation of sides—tomato stew, gari (toasted cassava granules), boiled egg, shito, fried plantain, spaghetti (locally called talia), and sometimes wele (softened cow skin) or stewed meats—so each serving can be tailored to appetite and budget. Rooted in northern Ghana and spread through urban markets and Zongo communities, waakye’s hearty base and customizable toppings make it a practical, filling start to the day in Accra’s fast-moving routine.

Ghanaian jollof is built on a well-fried tomato-onion-chili base seasoned with ginger, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, and sometimes curry powder before long-grain or perfumed jasmine rice is added to absorb the sauce. The rice steams in the tomato broth until each grain is colored and scented, with a prized toasty bottom layer known as kanzo forming where the pot meets the heat; sides may include grilled chicken, salad, or fried plantain. While jollof is the centerpiece at celebrations and weekend gatherings, it is equally common for family meals, and Accra’s version tends toward a balanced, tomato-forward flavor with gentle heat rather than overwhelming spice.

Fufu is a pounded staple made by boiling cassava and ripe plantain, then rhythmically pounding them in a mortar until the dough becomes stretchy and smooth, portioned into soft, elastic balls. It is paired with light soup (nkrakra), a clear, spicy broth of blended fresh tomatoes, onions, chilies, and aromatics, often simmered with goat, chicken, or fresh fish, and sometimes garden eggs for gentle bitterness. In Accra, fufu with light soup is a weekend or late-afternoon ritual, eaten by hand without chewing—small pieces are swallowed with soup—providing sustained energy in the humid climate and connecting diners to Akan-rooted traditions that have become citywide practice.

Red Red gets its name from the red palm oil that colors the bean stew and the bronzed edges of ripe fried plantain served alongside. Black-eyed peas (or other cowpeas) are simmered until tender, then stewed with palm oil, onions, tomatoes, fresh chilies, and a touch of smoked fish or dried shrimp to build gentle heat and umami; a sprinkle of gari adds a pleasant crunch. Eaten at lunch or dinner across Accra by those who prefer a legume-rich plate, it offers a satisfying mix of creamy beans, sweet plantain, and aromatic palm fruit notes, and serves as a reliable option on meat-free days or for balanced, affordable comfort.

Accra’s cuisine stands out for fermented maize, cassava and plantain staples, tomato-based stews, smoked seafood, and pepper sauces shaped by a coastal, humid climate. Street stalls and home kitchens maintain techniques that emphasize preservation and flavor depth without excess. Explore more Ghana food guides and climate-smart travel tips on Sunheron.com to plan meals and markets into your next trip.