What to Eat in Graz

Graz sits between Alpine foothills and the Pannonian plain, giving it a mild climate and a long growing season. Markets brim with pumpkins, apples, salads, and herbs, while the Mur valley supports year‑round produce. The result is a cuisine rooted in fields, orchards, and cellar traditions.

Eating patterns follow farm and vineyard rhythms: a cooked midday meal and a lighter evening Jause. Cold plates define wine taverns, and seasonal cooking drives menus—pumpkin in autumn, fresh greens in spring, and horseradish and cured meats shaping hearty winter fare across the city and its hills.

Steirisches Backhendl is bone‑in chicken, typically thighs and drumsticks, seasoned with salt and lemon, then dredged in flour, beaten egg, and fine breadcrumbs (Semmelbrösel). It is fried until deep golden in lard, clarified butter, or neutral oil, producing an audible crackle and sealing in juice. The crust is airy yet sturdy, scented with toasty crumbs, while the meat stays tender and slightly lemony. The dish gained popularity in the 19th century and became a Sunday staple in Styria, where it often arrives with Erdäpfelsalat dressed in apple cider vinegar and a hint of pumpkin seed oil, or with Vogerlsalat. You’ll encounter Backhendl at midday meals, harvest gatherings, and family celebrations throughout the year, when cooks lean on fresh oil, dry breadcrumbs, and hot fat to achieve a shattering shell.

Käferbohnensalat centers on the Styrian Käferbohne (scarlet runner bean), a large marbled bean cooked until creamy but intact. The warm or cooled beans are dressed with Styrian apple cider vinegar, a generous pour of Kürbiskernöl (pumpkin seed oil, PGI), finely sliced onions, salt, black pepper, and often chives or a touch of garlic; some add roasted pumpkin seeds for crunch. The flavor is unmistakable: nutty, almost toasty notes from the oil meet sweet, buttery beans and mild acidity, yielding a silken yet substantial bite. Protected designations for both Käferbohne and Kernöl highlight the region’s identity in the bowl. In Graz, this salad appears as a light lunch, a side to fried or roasted dishes, or as a stand‑alone evening option in wine taverns. It’s enjoyed year‑round, with peak appeal in late summer and autumn when freshly pressed vinegar and oil showcase their fullest aromatics.

A Brettljause is a cold spread arranged on a wooden board: slices of smoked and cured pork, speck, pre‑cooked cold roast, hearty sausages, and spreads like Verhackertes (finely chopped cured pork) and Grammelschmalz (lard with cracklings). Cheeses, pickled vegetables, mustard, fresh bread, and a mound of freshly grated Kren (horseradish) complete the board. Flavors run smoky, salty, and tangy, with the horseradish’s nasal heat cutting through the richness, and the pickles snapping alongside chewy crusts of farmhouse rye. The Brettljause is inseparable from Styria’s Buschenschank culture—seasonal wine taverns permitted to serve their own wine and only cold foods. Around Graz, it’s a late‑afternoon or early‑evening meal after a vineyard walk, especially in autumn when grape must (Sturm) appears. The board celebrates preservation techniques and local pantry staples rather than cooking, making it an essential snapshot of Styrian foodways.

Kürbiscremesuppe showcases the region’s oil pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo var. styriaca). Cooks sauté onion and sometimes carrot in butter, add diced pumpkin and a small potato for body, then simmer in vegetable stock until soft. The soup is blended smooth and enriched with cream or a dollop of sour cream; ginger, nutmeg, or garlic may be added with restraint. A swirl of dark green Kürbiskernöl and a scatter of roasted seeds finish the bowl. The result is velvety, gently sweet, and earthy, with the oil contributing roasted‑nut aromas and a faint bitterness that balances the creaminess. As Styria harvests pumpkins each autumn, the soup anchors seasonal menus in Graz, served at lunch counters and family tables from September through November. It’s often a first course before roast meats, though many locals take it as a satisfying midday meal with bread.

Heidensterz is a rustic buckwheat preparation long associated with rural Styria. Buckwheat flour is toasted in butter or lard until fragrant, then scalded with salted water or milk while being worked into coarse, tender crumbs (the sterz). A pat of butter melts through the grains, which remain separate yet hearty. The flavor is nutty and toasty, with a pleasantly coarse, slightly chewy texture that feels both simple and nourishing. Historically, buckwheat thrived on poorer soils and shorter growing seasons in the uplands around Graz, making sterz an affordable everyday dish. It appears sweet with apple compote or sprinkled sugar, or savory alongside fried eggs, sauerkraut, or pan juices from stewed meats. Today you’ll find Heidensterz at farmhouse kitchens, seasonal festivals, and traditional taverns, served for breakfast or a modest lunch, especially in cooler months when warm, grain‑based foods are most welcome.

Graz’s cuisine combines market freshness with cellar tradition: pumpkins and apples, sharp Kren, and the unmistakable depth of Kürbiskernöl. Meals center on seasonality and straightforward technique, whether frying, curing, or slow simmering. Explore more food stories and plan weather‑savvy travel with Sunheron’s smart filters and destination database.