What to Eat in Haarlem

Haarlem sits between North Sea dunes and fertile polders, and that geography shapes what people cook. A temperate maritime climate favors fresh fish, hardy greens, and baking traditions that suit cool, damp days. Locals often keep breakfast and lunch simple with bread and dairy, saving warm evening meals for home.

Markets around the Grote Markt anchor daily shopping, with stalls adjusting to the season—coastal catch in summer, robust stews and sweets in winter. Street stands and cafés cover filling snacks for cyclists and commuters, while family tables emphasize straightforward flavors, thrift, and reliable ingredients.

Hollandse Nieuwe haring is lightly matured young herring prepared by the traditional gibbing method, where the gills and most organs are removed but enzymes are left to tenderize the flesh. The fish is salt-cured, quickly deep-frozen for safety, then thawed and served with finely chopped onion and sometimes pickles. Its texture is silky and almost buttery, with mild salinity and a clean marine sweetness; onion adds sharpness, while pickles bring acidity that cuts the richness. The first catch of the season is celebrated along the Dutch coast in late spring and early summer, and in Haarlem people buy it at haringkarren (herring carts) or fish stalls to eat on the spot by the tail or in a soft roll, most often as a midday or late-afternoon snack.

Kibbeling today means bite-sized chunks of white fish—commonly cod or pollock—dipped in a seasoned flour batter and deep-fried until golden. The batter may include pepper, paprika, curry powder, or a splash of beer for lift; frying at high heat crisps the exterior while keeping the interior flaky and moist. Served hot with ravigotesaus or knoflooksaus (garlic sauce) and a wedge of lemon, kibbeling balances crunchy crust with steaming, delicate fish and a tangy, herbal finish from the sauce. It grew from a frugal practice of using offcuts and has become a staple of Dutch fish stalls; in Haarlem you’ll find it at viskranen on market days or near busy squares, eaten standing up as a warm, filling snack around lunch or as an afternoon treat in cool, windy weather.

Erwtensoep, often called snert, is a thick split-pea soup built for damp North Sea winters. Dried split peas simmer for hours with pork—such as ham hock, spek, and rookworst—plus leeks, onions, celeriac, carrots, and sometimes potatoes, until the peas collapse into a dense, spoon-standing purée. The flavor is smoky and savory, with gentle sweetness from root vegetables and a herbal lift from celery leaves; the texture is hearty enough to serve as a full meal. Traditionally allowed to rest overnight to deepen in taste, snert is common at home kitchens and community gatherings during the coldest months in Haarlem, served piping hot with slices of roggebrood (rye bread) and katenspek or cheese for lunch or a simple winter dinner.

Poffertjes are small, puffed pancakes made from a yeasted batter of wheat and buckwheat flour, milk, eggs, and a pinch of sugar. Cooked on a cast-iron poffertjespan with shallow wells, they are flipped quickly with a fork to keep the centers tender and airy while developing a light golden crust. Served in generous portions with a knob of butter and a snowfall of powdered sugar—sometimes with stroop—they taste lightly sweet, buttery, and warm, with a springy, cake-like bite. Associated with 19th-century fairs and church festivals, poffertjes remain a festive street food in Haarlem, appearing at seasonal markets and public events; locals enjoy them as an afternoon snack or dessert, especially on cooler days when something warm and soft is welcome.

Boerenkool stamppot mixes curly kale and potatoes mashed into a hearty, slightly coarse purée enriched with butter and a splash of milk. The pot often cooks the kale and potatoes together so the greens soften and lend their earthy flavor; the mash is seasoned with salt, pepper, and sometimes a touch of nutmeg, then served with slices of rookworst and a ladle of jus. The result is warming and savory, with kale adding a mild bitterness that’s balanced by the creamy potatoes and smoky sausage. Long linked to farmhouse cooking and winter harvests—kale traditionally tastes sweeter after frost—this dish is common across the Netherlands and in Haarlem kitchens from late autumn through winter, eaten as a straightforward evening meal with mustard and pickles on the side.

Haarlem’s food reflects a coastal city that values seasonality, practicality, and comfort. Fresh fish from the North Sea, robust winter dishes, and festive sweets anchor a rhythm that follows weather and markets. If this overview sparked your appetite, explore more clear, data-driven destination guides and food stories on Sunheron.com.