What to Eat in Melanesia

Melanesia stretches across the southwestern Pacific, from Papua New Guinea to New Caledonia, binding volcanic highlands and coral coasts. Tropical humidity, fertile soils, and abundant reefs shape a pantry of root crops, leafy greens, and seafood. Coconut, taro, yam, cassava, breadfruit, and reef fish underpin daily meals and celebrations.

Cooking balances fire, hot stones, and fresh acids, with earth-oven feasts for gatherings and quick coconut‑lime cures for the heat. Eating is communal and practical: a starch base anchors the plate, protein is shared, and waste is minimized. Markets in Port Moresby, Suva, Honiara, Port Vila, and Nouméa pulse with these traditions.

Mumu is Papua New Guinea’s ceremonial centerpiece, prepared in an earth oven lined with heated river stones. Layers of kaukau (sweet potato), taro, yam, leafy aibika, and pork or chicken are seasoned with salt and often enriched with coconut cream, then wrapped in banana leaves to steam-roast for hours. The method yields fork‑tender roots, succulent meat, and a gentle smokiness, with coconut lending sweetness and gloss. Historically tied to bride‑price exchanges, church gatherings, and village feasts, mumu affirms kinship and land stewardship. While still common in rural Highlands and coastal communities, urban families in Port Moresby might scale it down for weekend celebrations or substitute a metal drum oven. Mumu is typically eaten midday when the oven is opened, with portions shared widely and leftovers packed for neighbors.

Kokoda is Fiji’s emblematic raw fish dish, where firm white fish such as walu or mahi‑mahi is diced and briefly “cooked” in lime or lemon juice. The citrus is drained, then the fish is folded into thick coconut cream with finely sliced onion, tomato, chili, and sometimes cucumber or spring onion, seasoned simply with salt. The result is cool and bright: silky coconut rounds off the sharp acid, chili adds heat, and the fish remains fresh and resilient, not chewy. Kokoda reflects coastal abundance and a regional dialogue with ika mata and other Pacific ceviches, adapted to Fiji’s rich coconut groves. It appears at family gatherings, Sunday lunches, and national holidays, often served in a coconut shell or small bowl. In Suva, you’ll see it at market counters and home kitchens alike, especially during the hot months when a chilled, light meal suits the climate.

Saksak is a staple among sago‑producing communities in Papua New Guinea’s Sepik region and across parts of the Solomon Islands. Raw sago starch is washed and squeezed from pith, then combined with mashed ripe banana or a little sugar, shaped into torpedo‑like dumplings, wrapped in banana leaves, and steamed or boiled. Served with a rich coconut sauce, palm sugar syrup, or alongside smoked fish, saksak is lightly sweet, faintly nutty, and satisfyingly chewy, with a leafy aroma from the wrapping. Its importance is ecological as well as cultural: sago thrives in swampy, low‑lying areas where taro or yam may not, anchoring food security in flood‑prone climates. You’ll encounter saksak at breakfasts, community fundraisers, and market stalls in Honiara, where it’s eaten as a snack or paired with savory sides. It travels well, making it a practical food for river journeys and village workdays.

Laplap, regarded as Vanuatu’s national dish, turns grated root crops—taro, yam, cassava, or breadfruit—into a smooth, thick paste spread over banana leaves. The paste is brushed with coconut milk and layered with fillings such as island cabbage (aibika), fish, chicken, or pork, then wrapped tightly and baked with hot stones. The texture is dense yet tender, like a rustic pudding, with creamy coconut and the gentle sweetness of starchy roots; fillings add savory depth without overpowering the base. Laplap anchors ceremonies, Independence Day events, and Sunday meals, reinforcing communal work from grating to wrapping to tending the oven. While island styles vary, the method remains consistent from Santo to Tanna. In Port Vila, families may prepare smaller, household‑sized parcels for weekends, serving slices with broth or grilled seafood. It’s eaten warm, cut into slabs, and shared from the center of the mat.

Bougna is a cornerstone of Kanak cuisine in New Caledonia, a banana‑leaf parcel filled with taro, yam, sweet potato, plantain, and pieces of chicken or reef fish. Ingredients are doused in freshly expressed coconut milk, wrapped into tight bundles, and cooked over hot stones in an earth oven until the roots are soft and the coconut lightly caramelizes. The flavors are earthy and aromatic, with the sweetness of banana and yam balanced by savory juices from meat or fish; the coconut forms a lush sauce that coats every bite. Bougna is central to customary ceremonies and festive gatherings, reinforcing ties between clans and land. While full ovens are common in tribal settings, smaller versions are prepared for family events around Nouméa. It’s typically opened and eaten in the early afternoon, with portions divided communally and served with broth or simple greens.

Melanesian cuisine stands out for its rootedness in land and reef, and for techniques that respect climate: earth ovens for slow, communal feasts and coconut‑citrus cures for quick, cooling meals. Starches lead, proteins support, and nothing is wasted. Explore more regional foods, seasonal tips, and weather‑savvy travel planning on Sunheron.com.